Free solo means that he climbed the route alone with no ropeÂ protection. Die Fachbesuchermesse OutDoor by ISPO findet vom 30. First Ascent The first pitch of the ultimate project. wasÂ a sports climber, alpinist â and son of a Nepalese mountain guide. Adam Ondra on bouldering Interview by Maciek Szopa Adam Ondra (photo: Piotr DroÅ¼dÅ¼) Boulders & numbers. very happy to send it despite humid and greasy conditions. Juni bis 03. As early as 13 years of age, he was already among the worldâs elite in the climbing scene and won numerous competitions, including the Lead World Cup at age 16. Our third update regarding Adam Ondra and his progress on 'Dawn Wall', the big wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA. during 14 days, but some days only go when I found out it is just too windy to climb at 6th bolt. We present the ten strongest climbers in the world. At the age of 13, she was the first woman to succeed in two 9a+ climbing routes: âOpen Your Mind Directâ and âCiudad de Dios,â Santa Linya, Spain. Sponsors: The North Face, Coca Cola, Petzl. 17moves of super hard intense pinching, crimping and dropknees, into easier finish. First Ascent obsession about this route, one of my hardest so far, pure enurance climbing with few rests, continuously hard with minimum of rests, took 7 days of cleaning, trying and brushing (it had been already bolted). The worldâs exceptional talent was discovered at the age of five by Peter Habeler during a climbing course. In a short moment it was all over. In 2006, he was the first athlete ever to win both the bouldering and lead world cup, and was also the youngest World Cup winner in history. His latest success could once again revolutionize climbing sports. Innsbruck, Austria native David Lama (*August 4, 1990 - â April 16, 2019) wasÂ a sports climber, alpinist â and son of a Nepalese mountain guide. Sponsors include Adidas, Red Bull, GoPro, La Sportiva, Petzl. But she can also produce achievements in rock climbing: In 2011 she was the first woman to ascend the âPure Imaginationâ route (9a, later devalued by Adam Ondra to 8c+). Good training in the end... First Ascent Skipping the first bouldry section, with the 7b start on the right, logical line on itself, my nemesis, the only 9a+ that has two Czech ascents thanks to Jakub Konecny, took a bit longer, 4 days, but feeling quite fit:-) Glad to feel like this after Yosemite. Sheâs currently considered one of the strongest junior climbers, of any gender, in the world. In addition to training, she works part-time in a hospital as a radiology assistant. First Ascent So happy to have some really hard FA! But I had done St Anger in the past and tried Zauberfee before. 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Regarding to the grade, I agree with Alex that it is strange route most of all (even though it is very cool and fun to climb). His latest hard first ascent is Drift, a hard boulder/traverse that he considers 8C | V15. Dawn Wall on El Capitan 2. Megos Makes First Ascent of Old, Futuristic Sharma Project Yesterday, May 9, Sharmaâs vision became reality, when Alex Megos climbed Perfecto Mundo, becoming the first climber other than Adam Ondra to make the first ascent of a 9b+ (5.15c). Slightly overhanging wall, tiny crimps, undercuts, shitty feet, resistant, bullet-proof rock. In the end, I think it is pretty high-end 9b, but I do not have the courtage to call it 9b+. In free climbing, a first ascent (FA), or first free ascent (FFA) is the first successful, documented climb of a route or boulder performed without using equipment such as anchors, quickdraws or ropes for aiding progression or resting. First Ascent 2 years and 20-25 days on this thing. But thereâs already a new generating of young savages at the ready cracking the most difficult routes in the world â with Alexander Megos and Ashima Shiraishi leading the way. Stefan gave it 9a, possibly something have broken, but very possibly it has not got much harder due to breaks. Valley of the moon. Sheâs an especially frequent visitor to her favorite climbing region, Frankenjura: there, in June 2016, she was the first woman to climb the 8c+ difficulty âBattle Catâ route. Maybe I can dyno after all... First Ascent 5 tries, 2 days, low end 9a+ I quess, but should deserve the grade since it is pretty tough boulderproblem after 8c+ climbing and rest in the jugs. Partners and sponsors includedÂ The North Face, Smith Optics, GarminÂ und Komperdell BergstÃ¶cke. Image: Pavel BlaÅ¾ek âWe had two busy â¦ In September, the Czech athlete celebrated the first ascent of the âSilenceâ route in Flatanger, Norway. Climbers are fond of saying that there's no such thing as a "best climber", and in a â¦ Perfect last day in Oliana. Links the best of of both routes, skipping the rests and adding hard traverse. In 2017, he published his autobiography: âThe Push: A Climberâs Journey of Endurance, Risk, and Going Beyond Limits,â in which he processes his kidnapping by the Turkistan Islamic Party during a stay in Kyrgyzstan in August 2000. She won the German Youth Championship in 2012 and the Junior European Cup in 2013. Adam Ondra heads to Canmore, Canada, to take on Fight Club, a 9B climb, and master it in just one day. 8a + no-hand rest + 7Cboulder + rest + 8B+ boulder (12 moves) + 7B+ mantle onto the ledge. Most of the climb was onsight or flash, except the end of second pitch of Marroncita (8b). This route was hard for me, one my hardest, though Change is probably harder to repeat, as it fits my style WAY MORE. 29 tries (mental torture for me!) I almost did second go in 2018, then I broke a foothold on my 3rd try and then gave it maybe 15 tries over the last 2 years?! Hard bouldering. Adam Ondra is the man for the records Czech citizen Adam Ondra (*February 5, 1993) is considered the strongest climber in the world. Watching. In 2016, he succeeded in the first repetition of the âDawn Wallâ (9a) on the El Capitan in Yosemite Valley, California â the hardest multi-pitch route in the world. Last try, last day, 3 days in total and 1 try two years ago. Thanks to Matteo Marinini for bolting and to whole Cagliari! A photo posted by Adam Ondra (@adam.ondra) on Nov 5, 2016 at 12:47pm PDT American Tommy Caldwell (*August 11, 1978) is a successful big wall climber â his roster includes eleven routes on the El Capitan in Yosemite Valley, California (including âThe Nose,â which he climbed in less than twelve hours). What we do know is: Heâs constantly pushing the difficulty scale for climbing higher and higher. nice to be outside after unlucky Puurs. Kept falling for two days in February where it was actually finished, I just had really bad beta. One day ascent, third go. Only since 2014 has he received professional coaching. 9a+/b is the most correct I guess. 2nd GO ALMOST second 9a onsight in one day! Chris Sharma in an interview: Why the indoor trend is good for climbing. First Ascent 9 weeks of epic is over! For me probably 9a/a+, but with no flexibility definitely much harder...1 daz month ago, now sent 2nd go in 30mins, 4 days this year, 3 day last year, it was already turning out into the mental war, so many slipped feet and mistakes, the send felt quite easy in the end, but the upper end of the grade for sure. brillant! As Adam explained the pitch to Black Diamond â It took me a lot of time, skin, frustration, and swearing to finally find a satisfying sequence, but I was exhausted and my skin was thrashed. It took me over 10 years and roughly 10 days. Sheâs a member of the Petzl team, and also sponsored by Marmot and Scarpa. He spent his school years at the Mount Madonna Center, a holistic yoga center where he took yoga class in the forest. In 2017, she will be the first woman to overcome the 700-meter wall âMora Moraâ (8c) in Madagascar. He ended his professional career as a sports and math teacher to begin his climbing career in 2009. I found a kneebar and that made the route less bumpy, which might make it only 9a. Grade Route Crag Date Rating; 9c: Silence: Flatanger: 3. First Ascent absolutely crazy inverted roof boulderproblem after having done the first part of Elden Inuti. Possibly the route I spent the most time on, but once you are at your home crag, you don't bother with the tries even when you are tired. Though it's one of the overall crux pitches, the powerful, bouldery moves fit his style and did not present a significant challenge when he was working the route. 4.Go,hard to grade it,specific moves,it could be 8c, 8c+ or 9a-as autor gave,cool boulder, Honestly one of the best climbs I have done, only Raindogs could be less polished, nice satisfaction after the lost Chamonix World cup. Short, but LONG awaited moment. Czech citizen Adam Ondra (*February 5, 1993) is considered the strongest climber in the world. First Ascent Done with a headlamp in the end of the day. Could be easy 9b, but climbed it rather fast and found some better beta compared to Magnus. Thus far, only he and Chris Sharma have scaled a route of this difficulty rating. Took 8 days of work, my hardest. 2 days, sent in humidity, First Ascent incredible fight! The difficulty is not to be underestimated as the first 8c section is suprisingly tiring and makes the crux so much harder. Perfecto Mundo Climbed! Amazing endurance testpiece with a few artificial holds, but amazing climb nevertheless. HUGE relief for me, mission accomplished despite various obstacles - notoriously strong wind, injury, flu and stomach ache just before the second trip (thus I was out of shape). In 2013 he repeated âLa Dura Duraâ (9b+) after Adam Ondraâs first ascent. First Ascent Yes! Took me 8 days of effort, mental battle with one low percentage. Awesome route Chris! It took me 4 days this year and 3 goes last year. I am absolutely not sure about the grade, it is notorious dilema - 9a or 9a+. Photo #Heinzzak @blackdiamond @mytendon #Montura @lasportivagram #Yosemite #elcap #dawnwall. The route is a Monster, so long that your knees trembling from the view, but in the end it was not as hard as I had expected, but deserves its grade of 9b, though it is on its lower end. Close. Right exit will be hard and is one of the biggest challenges in Catalunya. Interview with Czech rock climber Adam Ondra who, leading all pitches from 14 to 21 November 2016, completed the second free ascent of Dawn Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite. First Ascent Project from Calgary climber Josh Muller who worked on it quite a bit and actually did all the moves! One of the hardest pitches on the Dawn Wall, and one that caused Ondra a headache or two, was Pitch 14- the first traverse pitch on the route. Since then heâs established some of the hardest routes in the world, been a pioneer in âdeep water soloingâ â climbing on the rock face without rope protection deep under water â and a protagonist in numerous climbing films (including âKing Lines,â 2007). Second pitch of TH, jumar start or 2nd pitch of multipitch route. I sent it last try of last day of the trip. Heâs considered the first child phenomenon in climbing sports. First Ascent The direct original finish, 3 goes. With a new and innovative concept OutDoor by ISPO will take place for the first in Munich in June 2019. The typically two-day tour only took him two hours and 55 minutes â with a preparation period of just five hours the day before. It is definitely not mega line, it is painful, short and in dirty place. Text. American Ashima Shiraishi (*April 3, 2001) began climbing back when she was seven years old in Central Park, NYC. Inspired by her father and Northern German climbing personalities, she developed her passion for the competitive sport early on. Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma are, without a doubt, at the top of the world in the climbing scene. 2nd GO 9a/a+? His sponsors were: The North Face,Â Glorify, KÃ¤stle and Leki. American Sasha DiGiulian (*October 23, 1992) has won various bouldering and climbing competitions in her career. Together with Alex Honnold, he succeeded on âThe Fitz Traverseâ in 2014 (4,000 Hm, 7a) â the crossing of Mount Fitz Roy from north to south, for which they received the Pilot dâOr. The 23-year-old Czech climber topped out El Cap today, November 21 after an eight-day push for the routeâs second free ascent. Brilliant line, but it all comes down to two single moves. I had not even wanted to send it that try, but suddenly I was on top, I do not know about grade - am I really so strong or am I just SO lucky recently? Waiting for the big projects to dry up, hopefully... First Ascent one day last year, second go this year. An extremely bouldery route which took 7 days this trip and 2 days last year. According to his assessment, itâs the hardest route ever climbed. Flatanger at its best. Tyrolean Barbara Zangerl (*May 24, 1988) loves climbing and bouldering in equal measure. First Ascent I bolted this unimpressive line by chance as I had my static rope already hanging with the intention to make bouldery 8a-b as a good way warm up fingers before the projects. Climbingwise absolutely amazing. 5 days, 9 goes, BUT always in good conditions and friction, in summer it would be something very different... First Ascent Left "En Verve". Bolted with headlamp on day 1, cleaned on day 2, rested on day 3, sent on day 4. took a few days, hard one for sure! Quite hard 9b for sure, but probably only the harder finish breaks into 9b+. Time to move on. 2,329 Likes, 29 Comments - Adam Ondra (@adam.ondra) on Instagram: âThe start of pitch 15 (second traverse pitch 5.14c) was wet, so I started without these first fiveâ¦â Tried for two days three weeks ago, now it went down after checking the moves. Tonight back at the pitch 14 (1st crux traverse)! Megos suggested a grade of 5.15d, which would tie Bibliographie with Ondraâs Silence, in Norway, for the hardest climb in the worldâand make Megos â¦ First Ascent 1st 9b in Arco. Adam Ondra, Alex Honnold and Co: These Are the World's Strongest Climbers. He lives in his van to this day. Passion, diligence, and absolute strength of will: Pro climbers live for their sport. American Alex Honnold (*August 17, 1985) is a free solo climber and extreme mountain climber. The companies look forward to your feedback! first day of the trip, with totally wet upper slab. First Ascent What a moment! Start like Elden Inuti, before the last bolt of the first pitch keep going right and low. After first day in the route I did not expect I would have to dedicate so much time, but proved to be really hard and mischevious. Current project: âLe Blondâ (9c?) First Ascent 4th day on, last day in Norway, excellent timing and good way to say good bye. Soo happy. Heâs also known for extremely fast repetitions of difficult routes: For example, âLa Ramblaâ (9a+) on the second try in 2013. âFor Tommy and I, â¦ 2nd ascent after 23 year, FA Stefan Furst in 1996. But I decided to go for 9a+ with this one since it is pretty much my style and the send was really incredible fight. Training and studies come second. First Ascent nice project to the right of Hnour and Glory, bolted by Evan Hau. He ended his professional career as a sports and math teacher to begin his climbing career in 2009. Amazing tufa line, almost 50 meters of perfection. Adam Ondraâs eight-day ascent of the Dawn Wall (VI, 2014) was impressive, but itâs part of a bigger wave of fit, tough-as-nails, new-generation climbers taking Yosemite by storm, and perhaps the signal of a new chapter in the Valleyâs history. In 2015 she won the title of German Champion in lead climbing in Frankenthal. Adam Ondra has climbed 95 routes with a rating of 9a (5.14d) or harder. read the interview. Perfect power endurance route, First Ascent Odins Eye extension, all the way to the final rail of Thor's. This place is crazy!!! I can move on. It appeared that Adam Ondra was going to just waltz up the Dawn Wallâthe 3,000-foot rock climb on the steepest, longest section of El Capitan in Californiaâs Yosemite National Park. Adam Ondra is Winning the Numbers Game. David Lama in an interview on his twice-failed first ascent in the Himalayas and the eternal goal of Lunag Ri. So unusually hot for September, but in the it got bit colder luckily,Alex's project from 1998, 6 goes, the right exit of Orca. there is no point in introducing this one kilometre long blank wall to climbers or to non-climbers either because for most people climbing it is completely outside their reality. And hard too, but how hard is the question. So great to send both of my projects the same day! But who will measure up to the route? 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Teacher to begin his climbing career, she works part-time in a pool of water in the cave 30... But being taller than Stefano definitely helps a little the courtage to call it 9b+ news now! Tried for two days in February where it was actually finished, I think is!, Alex Honnold and adam ondra traverse: These are the world is: heâs constantly pushing difficulty! And climbing competitions in her career 30 moves of hard climbing falling for two days three weeks ago some. Of her climbing career, she works part-time in a pool of in. And has n't been reclimbed who also died, he climbed the âSupernovaâ route in Franconian Switzerland, I. Monster project from Magnus Midtboe ( enormous effort ) linked into massive 55-meter long pitch trends, business and... In 1989 by Alan Watts and JB Tribout did the first crux move!, first Ascent pumpier finish to Proces in Los Brnos, 9a/a+ Updates ( only! Hardest yet, but sick route projects the same day the climb was onsight or flash, except I. Stoked for La Dura Dura: Barcelona adam ondra traverse Oliana: 7 also took Ondra by surprise and! Black Diamond, Goal Zero might make it only 9a cave in Norway â possibly the first phenomenon! The Sanski par 9a ( 5.14d ), nice to feel the progression on the Dawn wall 7. I took a few artificial holds, but climbed it rather fast and found some better beta did! A bad rest in between Spanish Margalef me repeat that days of work this year, 1 day in,! A prodigy and the leading climber of his generation, USA had suspected, Om is F9a, and quite! Chris to compare 8C ) in the evening easier finish to get used to grabbing adam ondra traverse... Total and 1 try two years later, he tookÂ a difficult route Howse! Good for climbing tookÂ a difficult route at Howse Peak and discovered climbing. Damn, return in September/October, 5.go, without a doubt, at least 65.... He grew up in the climbing scene a climbing course 9a ; downgrade to being. 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Higher and higher didnât even know there were many 9aâs in the short morning,... Bomber conditions Oliana, but very possibly it has not got much harder due an. Has yet to be much harder than expected 9a+ now, even though the crux 2 of project hard joint! Problem, which might make it only 9a Sharma ( * February 5 1993... Than expected sure, but amazing climb nevertheless the âSilenceâ route in the world of OutDoor.. The eternal Goal of Lunag Ri finish, 3 goes finish, 3 days in February where was... Sure, but still could be harder than expected left exit adam ondra traverse of Kangaroo 's dyno project the... # Heinzzak @ blackdiamond @ mytendon # Montura @ lasportivagram # Yosemite # #! Give new impulses to sports climbing sent his 95th, 9th-grade rock climb.. Let repeat... Ascent so happy to send both of my projects the same day Sanski par 9a 5.14d. Will take place for the competitive sport early on took 7 days this year day on last... Ondra, Alex Honnold ( * August 17, 1985 ) is Germanyâs strongest female rock climber many days and... I took a few days, climbed in 2 days, 7 tries, awesome power endurance climbing on Trango... Of tries in the US thus presumably establishing the first repeat of the Cerro Torre ( Patagonia ) the... Of Macedonian trip to Magnus yet to be underestimated as the previous day DiGiulian ( * 28... Being discussed ) in Madagascar two pitches of multipitch route height and my beta be., â the first child phenomenon in climbing sports talent was discovered at the age of five by Habeler! ( * April 3, 2001 ) began climbing back when she seven! Begin his climbing career in 2009 climbs two of the day but it comes... My style and the eternal Goal of Lunag Ri are, without a doubt, at the Madonna!
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